Reinvented Modernity: Dior Spring-Summer 2015
“What is modern?” The statement presented on the press notes perfectly describes the mood of the Dior Spring Summer 2015 collection. After all, Simons’ trade-mark way of thinking would be “the process of finding something extremely modern through something very historical.” This collection proudly re-presented, in an 18th century futuristic way,Dior’s original Bar Jacket, as well as his revolutionary silhouette. And in doing so, he presented a collection that ‘made the history look new and the modern look old’. Many of the waist lines of the coats recalled the 1947 New Look’s delineation, as well as inspiration to 18th century ‘justacorp’ court coats. It was as if Marie Antoinette had gone to lunch with Neil Armstrong,Tony Hawk and a school girl. Raf Simons knowing and understanding the brand’s heritage and history has completely changed its style, making the Dior woman, not only Miss Dior, but also Mrs Dior and Lady Dior!
The delicacy of the floral motifs carefully woven on skirts, jumpsuits, jackets and dresses, created an ethereal aura of intagible elegance. The way some of the silk satins in the vests and coats had been manufactured in a heavy wash kind of way, recalled vintage robes. The richness of the colours, from marigold to bordeaux, contrasted with the tenuos tenderness of the milk-white/icy virginal hues used on what seemed rural nightgowns. This contrast enhanced the glitzy glamour of Dior, complemented even more by the styling, which included knitted tops and Bermuda shorts. It was, as if someone had picked out fabrics, inspirational drawings and sartorial detailing from the archive of the V&A Clotheworker’s center and had teleported them to the 21st century. Someone looking at the collection with fresh eyes, oblivious of the clear references to 18th century fashion, would’ve thought they were looking at a period drama costume rail. They’d be struck by how jacquard floral prints could ever look so good on astronaut jumpsuits. They’d be charmed by the subtle details, colorful lines of buttons, detailing the edges of skirts and jackets. They’d be seduced by the styling, a clever mix of vintage and avant-garde. They’d remain confused by the Edwardian collars and languid vests, which so much recalled puritan night gowns.
It was a continuation of the ideas he had brought forward in July at the haute couture collection, however, even though the craftmanship was amazing, it lacked that exciting step forward which had previously led many people to wander in another enchanted dimension.
Gifs and pictures from the Dior Tumblr, text by Elisa Carassai.